After a long and restless night Lynn and I (and most of the camp we later found out) were woken at 4.15 a.m. by Bee and Sherrill chatting. We tried to get back to sleep but decided at 5 a.m. that we might as well get ourselves up and dressed and pack our bags up for the days trek. Having a wet wipe wash and getting dressed in your sleeping bag in a tent with someone you don't know is quite an experience. No sooner were we clean than dust would get everywhere and make you feel filthy again.
The tent boys 'knocked' at 6 a.m. asking what we wanted to drink. We then went off to the mess tent for breakfast while the tent porters packed our tents away and packed our trek bags in plastic to protect them for the day.
Breakfast was hearty porridge with bread, peanut butter and pink sausages. Before setting off, Dave led the group in some stretching exercises to get us ready for the trek ahead. Today the trek would take us from 3000m to 3850m above sea level at the Shira Plateau.
Yesterdays headache hadn't really gone and I was also suffering from nausea this morning. The trek took us on a fairly steep and rock path up through the mist. At the front of the group they amused themselves by trying to name films through the alphabet while the back of the groups to to confound each other with increasingly difficult logic problems - some of which I still don't know the answer to. It wasn't long before we suddenly popped through the clouds and were able to look down on them - it was an amazing view. As usual, the porters were not far behind, ready to overtake us despite their heavy loads.
The climb to lunch camp was quite tough but it was reassuring to see the mess tent and the toilet tent had been set up in readiness for our arrival. Lunch was soup followed by a delicious vegetable spaghetti dish and fresh oranges.
I started to feel much worse after lunch with a really bad headache which was affecting my sinuses and making my nose bleed. It has to be the most painful headache I've ever had. Doc advised me to sit in the shade for a few minutes, take more painkillers and then pace myself really slowly until they kicked in. The lovely Jimmy (our assistant guide) walked with me to Shira camp, arriving about half hour after the rest of the group.
A hot drink was really welcome at this point. I was feeling pretty low and wanted to speak to Chris and the children but couldn't get a signal. I decided to lay on a rock in the sun and read my book instead. Just what the doctor ordered - I was feeling better after a short while. The clouds had lifted and we were rewarded with our first view of Kibo, the highest peak on Kilimanjaro. Some of the group then went on an acclimatisation walk to Shira Caves before tea. What was meant to be a 15 minute walk turned into an hour and a half as we decided to walk to Shira 1 camp and back as well.
First view of Kibo and Shira Cave
Mount Meru in the distance
We were all ready for tea by the time we got back to camp - fresh pumpkin soup, coriander pancakes, goulash, fresh coleslaw and ROAST POTATOES - how did they manage that on their calor gas stove? Straight to bed after tea and a beautiful view of Kibo glowing red in the sunset sent us to sleep.
Day 5 - 31st August 2010
Lynn and I woke at 5 after a good 9 hours sleep. I still felt head achy and bunged up but definitely feel better for the sleep. Everything in the tent is damp and there is a wet pool under my mat and sleeping bags. We've already had problems with the zip on the tent and it now appears that we've sprung a leak. We pack ready for breakfast of porridge, bread and omelette's at 6.30.
Lenticular Cloud
Today we will be climbing from 3850m to 4600m (lunching at 4500m) the back down to 3950m at Barranco Camp to sleep. This is to aid acclimatisation. It will be a real test on the altitude sickness front. This climb was very tough from the start. The terrain was rocky interspersed with shale. My headache was worsening by the minute and 1 hour into the climb Meera felt so sick she could barely put one foot in front of the other. The group was stopped for a rest then I was sent to the front with Jimmy to lead and set the pace and Whitie stayed at the back with Meera who was really struggling. At this point Jo began to feel ill and was struggling to keep up. It was a real effort to put one foot in front of the other to get to the Lava Tower rock where we knew we would stop for lunch. For the last 50m to the mess tent Sherrill was literally pushing me up the slope. When we reached the lunch stop we were told that Meera had been too ill to continue and had been taken to Barranco camp by piggy back along the porters route (lucky thing!) to see if she could recover in time to continue tomorrow.
Ever present little striped mice and our lunch stop at Lava Tower Rock
Lunch was a welcome rest even though none of us where particularly hungry. After lunch we split into two groups with the fitter heading off to Barranco Camp at a good pace and the rest of us making the best time we could. The landscape was barren and grey with only the strange Dendrosenico Kilimanjari plants to give ant greenery.
We all had a good laugh at Dave who said - "guys, this bit's downhill, use gravity to help you" and promptly slipped and fell on his bum :-). This was not a difficult walk but we're all tired and finally reach camp at 4pm. I'm thrilled to find a mobile phone signal and ring Chris to say hello - it makes me feel much better. We found out when we got to camp that they had discussed sending Meera home but have given in to her pleas and dosed her up to see how she fares tomorrow.
Dinner was not too appetising tonight being rice and pea stew YUK.
The Doc took me aside after tea and gave me a Diamox tablet to take as he is concerned my headaches will prevent me from reaching the summit if they carry on. I am to have one every 12 hours until summit day and continue with the painkillers as well.
Lynn and I woke at 5 after a good 9 hours sleep. I still felt head achy and bunged up but definitely feel better for the sleep. Everything in the tent is damp and there is a wet pool under my mat and sleeping bags. We've already had problems with the zip on the tent and it now appears that we've sprung a leak. We pack ready for breakfast of porridge, bread and omelette's at 6.30.
Lenticular Cloud
Ever present little striped mice and our lunch stop at Lava Tower Rock
Lunch was a welcome rest even though none of us where particularly hungry. After lunch we split into two groups with the fitter heading off to Barranco Camp at a good pace and the rest of us making the best time we could. The landscape was barren and grey with only the strange Dendrosenico Kilimanjari plants to give ant greenery.
Dendrosenico Kilimanjari and a view of Barranco Camp
We all had a good laugh at Dave who said - "guys, this bit's downhill, use gravity to help you" and promptly slipped and fell on his bum :-). This was not a difficult walk but we're all tired and finally reach camp at 4pm. I'm thrilled to find a mobile phone signal and ring Chris to say hello - it makes me feel much better. We found out when we got to camp that they had discussed sending Meera home but have given in to her pleas and dosed her up to see how she fares tomorrow.
Dinner was not too appetising tonight being rice and pea stew YUK.
The Doc took me aside after tea and gave me a Diamox tablet to take as he is concerned my headaches will prevent me from reaching the summit if they carry on. I am to have one every 12 hours until summit day and continue with the painkillers as well.
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