Friday, September 10, 2010

Kilimanjaro: Days 8-Home

Day 8: 3rd September 2010

We were woken early by the now familiar "jambo, mambo vipe?" from the early morning tea boys. We all took advantage of the clear views of Kibo from camp and many photos were taken. It was wonderful to look down from camp as it appeared we were floating in the clouds.


Kibo


Above the Clouds

It was an early start as there was the tipping ceremony to perform and all the porters were eager to pack and get away home to their families. Breakfast was the usual mix of porridge, bread, pink sausages and eggs with a hot drink which was rapidly eaten by all.

Once breakfast was over we all assembled outside for speeches from Dave and Whitie followed by the tipping ceremony and a speech on our behalf from Mark. It was all quite emotional, especially when the porters started singing.


Thanks from all of us.

We soon headed of on the 6 hour trek from camp to Mweke Gate where we would formally sign out and our trek would officially be over. The going was pretty tough as the entire 6 hours was over mud paths with uneven steps and was very hard on the knees.



Bee, Meera and I tried to kid ourselves that we only had half an hour to go but kept being disappointed by porters saying "only 3 hours" or "only 2 hours". We caught up with Mark about an hour from the gate. he had been in the front group with Libby, Ellen, Fraser, Dave and Bikram but had slowed his pace considerably due to knee problems. We spent an interesting hour discussing the group dynamics and the best and worst bits of the trek so far.

We were lucky enough to see loads of Columbus Monkeys in the trees as we neared the end of the path. They were really cute but we were more interested in the possibility of a cold beer at the bottom. As soon as we reached the rangers hut Mark had procured for us a Kilimanjaro beer each. I have to say that was the best tasting beer I have ever had! We were laughing at the fact that every other person that was selling something was haggled with but the beer boy made a killing. "How much for a beer?", "3 dollars", "OK - I'll take 2".


Lunch and Kilimanjaro beer

We went into the garden of the ranger station where a hot meal had been laid on for us. The food was fantastic. After purchasing our souvenir T-shirts and some of the team getting their boots cleaned, we headed off to the Hotel via a cash machine (to pay for our celebration dinner).

The hotel was even better than the first one we had stayed at. I had a room to myself again. No sooner than I had shut the door, I was in the shower and scrubbing for 45 minutes to get a weeks worth of ingrained dirt off my skin. My hair felt better after 4 washes and a condition and clean clothes made all the difference.


My room and the beautiful grounds of the hotel.

We had all arranged to meet at the bar at 6pm for a quick drink before heading off for the celebration dinner.


Arriving at the celebration dinner and me receiving my certificate.

The dinner was lovely with soup, grilled cheesy vegetables and garlic bread followed by BBQ chicken and pork, loads of veggies, chips and satay sauce. Dave and Whitie made speeches to thank everyone for taking part and we were all presented with our certificates and T-shirts. Bee, Sherrill and I were so tired we headed off to bed at 9.30 but some stayed out partying until the early hours. Libby and Ellen only arrived back at the hotel minutes before their taxi picked them up to take them to the airport.

Day 9 - Time to go Home

After a leisurely breakfast we assembled at reception as some of the group were going to the orphanage and some to a local warehouse complex where disabled people who would otherwise be outcast were employed to make souvenirs by hand. I decided on the latter and had a really interesting tour around Shah Industries. Everyone employed to produce goods made from local cow horn leather and wood was either suffering from polio, blind or albino - all of which are shunned by society. these people had built a great reputation and been able to support their families into the bargain.

After the tour we went back to the IndiaItaliano Restaurant for lunch followed by a bit of shopping then back to the hotel for a relax by the pool. The trip back to the hotel was interesting - 6 of us in a taxi made for 4. I had to sit on poor Sherrill's lap in the front with my head against the windscreen.



View from the restaurant


A little bit tired!

We all got changed and went a lay by the pool in the sun. I had a quick swim to cool down - bliss. the rest of the group arrived back from the orphanage with tales of how little the children had, only 2 books between 50 girls and the boys had none. they had very little to play with and their accommodation was really ramshackle. Such a shame.

Before we knew it, it was time to head to the airport. They have a funny scheme there where everyone queues outside the airport to have their luggage X-rayed before going inside the airport to check in. We had 4 hours before our flight so Bee, Sherrill, Steve, Mark and myself pooled our remaining money and paid to go into the business class lounge where you could eat and drink all you liked until boarding. The food wasn't great but there was plenty to keep us going.

Our first flight was flying to Dar es Salaam first with an hour to refuel and change crew, then onto Amsterdam. The plane was nearly full so we didn't have the luxury of multiple seats to have a kip. Most of us managed some sleep on the way back so we all felt a little more rested when we reached Amsterdam. Sadly, as soon as we landed my stomach began to hurt and I spent the whole time we were there rushing to the loo.

It was such a relief to land at Heathrow but very sad to say goodbye to everyone - we all got on so well. I couldn't wait to see Chris and the children. Chris had come to meet me while the children stayed at home to do their chores.

How lovely to get home!

Kilimanjaro: Days 6-7

Day 6 - 1st September 2010

From Barranco Camp via Karanga Camp to Barafu camp would take us from 4000m to 4600m above sea level. Today we have an early start as we need to climb the Barranco Wall, walk for 3.5 hours over 'gentle undulations' (Dave's much overused phrase usually meaning steep and slippery ascents and descents which tire you out and kill the legs). We were all up and ready to leave at 6.30. We're all a bit worried as we know this is going to be a super tough day with 8+ hours of walking, a few hours sleep and up at 11 p.m. for the summit attempt.


A long way up.

The Barranco wall was everything I had hoped for - the best fun I have had in ages. The going was steep in places and there were large rock steps but, in the main, it was fairly straightforward scrambling. Some of the team are not so happy as it's an awfully long way down. Bee has named me 'pocket rocket' for the speed I ascended - partly because I was having fun but also feeling a lot better due to Doc's drugs.



What fun!

Even on this part of the route the porters are over taking us with their heavy loads - some of them running up the rocks. We have been amazed over the last few days what diverse footwear the porters wear. We've seen everything from crocs to oversize walking boots, from loafers to old trainers. There are paid so little, and it is so poor here, that they mainly wear cast-offs from trekkers and holidaymakers.


A well desrved rest!

It took a good two hours to reach the top. Once we'd all arrived we lined up along the ledge facing the way we came. Dave asked us to have a minutes silence and think about what had bought us here and about our loved ones that were supporting us - quite an emotional moment for all.


A moment of contemplation.

Dave gave out crystallized ginger to settle stomachs then we were off again to cover those 'gentle undulations'. The weather wasn't great and the mist cover very low and the going slippery in places. Myself and Meera were feeling much better but Jo had stated to feel worse and was really struggling with exhaustion and a bad stomach. It took us 3.5 hours to reach Karanga Camp and we were only able to stop for 30 minutes lunch break. Karanga Camp was very busy and quite smelly due to the proximity of the long drops.


En-route and arrival at Karanga Camp

The afternoon trek to Barafu Camp was 3.5 hours of relentless slog on a nasty shale surface. The landscape at this point is very barren with little vegetation at all and the overcast weather didn't do much to lift the spirits. By the time we reached camp a bad headache was looming and I was ready to sit down for a hot drink.


The long path across and upto Barafu Camp and a warning that Acute Mountain Sickness is likely here.

We had 2 hours before dinner to sort out our bedding, get our clothes ready for the summit attempt, fill our water containers and get our day packs sorted. It doesn't sound like a massive job but the altitude made even sorting your kit bag take 3 times as long and made you feel like you'd run a marathon without even moving.


Inhospitable Camp

Jo finally made it into camp at 5.30 just as the rest of us were going into dinner. She was exhausted and just wanted to lie down. Dave and Whitie briefed us on the night ahead as we tried to force down some food. We would be going to bed straight after dinner, waking at 11 p.m. to have some porridge and a hot drink and leave the camp at 12 midnight to begin the long and arduous trek to the summit.

I was surprised that I managed to sleep for 4 hours - and I really needed it. Thankfully my headache had receded to a dull ache. we all dosed up on painkillers, ate as much as we could manage (not much in most cases), had a hot drink and set off in a line Pole, Pole (slowly, slowly) on our way. Sadly Jo decided not to attempt the summit so we left camp without her.

Day 7 - 2nd September 2010 - Summit Day

As we walked the half hour out of camp it began to get more and more difficult to breathe. We knew we had to climb from 4600 to approx. 5900 and that, if anything, breathing would become harder.

The first section once out of camp was 30 minutes over large rocks and then onto the relentless shale switchback which we had been briefed would take us approximately 5 hours to climb. When we approached this section and looked up the mountain, all you could see for as far as you could see were head torches in a zigzag up the mountain. 1.5 hours into this section we stopped for a brief break. It needed to be brief because you rapidly start to freeze in the -9 wind once you stop walking,. We were encouraged to try and eat (unsuccessfully) and drink before starting again. I cannot describe how painful and tired my legs felt at this point.


My Hero Benny.....................................Some of the team arriving at the summit

Not long after this stop, I tripped and fell. Benny (my summit porter and all round Hero) took my pack and pulled me up. Holding one of my hand, he urged me on. the porters kept bursting into song and the sound of their singing lifted every ones spirits. After 3 hours, I just sat on a rock and cried - I was exhausted and my head hurt. I wanted a wee but there was no way I was going to in this cold. I suddenly had a vision of Alex, hands on hips, saying "stop that jibba, jabba woman". It made me laugh and tell myself to get off my bum and get on with it.



...These are the conditions we walked in for 6 hrs ......................... The crater

I took back my poles form Benny and started walking 50 steps, stop, take 10 deep breaths and a drink, walk 50 steps, stop on and on and on. We had not been prepared for how terrible the last 250m to Stella Point were - the surface was so bad you'd take one step and slide back half a step. Benny blatantly lied saying "only 10 minutes to Stella" over and over for at least an hour. Just as we were about to reach he told me to turn round and the sun was coming up. Awesome.

I reached Stella Point and sat out of the wind while I changed my frozen camera battery and while I sat there one of the guides came and gave me a hot, sweet cup of tea. These guys are unbelievable.



Stopped for a rest!

Within 15 minutes most of the team had arrived. I then found out that poor Lynn had collapsed with hypothermia 2 hours in and been rushed back to camp, John had had breathing difficulties and gone back to camp and Sherrill had decided after 3 hours that she did not have the energy to go on. Such a shame.

Doc and Dave were hurrying us on for the hour ish walk from Stella Point to Uhuru Peak, the true summit. Now the sun was up and I could see the glaciers and ice fields, it didn't seem nearly as hard.


Wow - Can't believe I made it

Reaching the summit was the most amazing feeling in my life. Just the sense of awe at the scenery and the sense of achievement at getting there filled me with emotion.




Glaciers between 150 and 200m high

We were allowed to stay only for about 15 minutes as the combination of -15 winds and 50% less oxygen to breathe could prove dangerous. I wish I could have stayed longer. Fraser was asked for a philosophical quote now that we had arrived - his quote was "get me off this f***** mountain", he was so exhausted. Bikram had been bragging that he would do a moonie on top and, despite the cold winds, he did. Much to our amusement and the bemusement of other groups.



Way above the couds..................................................Ice fields


The route from Stella Point to Uhuru Summit

After having our pictures taken and taking pictures of the view, Benny started shepherding me off the mountain. That walk/run down has got to be the most punishing bit. The porters hold on to you and 'scree surf' you down the first 400m which basically means you ski on your heels. Not easy when you are absolutely exhausted. It took ages to reach the camp and, although you could see it, it never seemed to get any closer. I was the first to the summit but half the group reached camp before me, I just couldn't walk any faster.

We arrived back at camp at 10.45 and had 2 hours until lunch in which to fit in a sleep and to pack all our gear ready for trekking to Millennium Camp where we would spend the night. It was hardly worth sleeping so I packed my gear and propped myself up on a rock to read.

After a quick lunch we set off for the long and slow walk to Millennium Camp. It was really hard on the knees and legs and took us 3 hours instead of the 2 we had been told. Most of barely attempted tea before getting off to bed around 6 p.m.

Kilmanjaro: Days 4-5

Day 4 - 30th August 2010

After a long and restless night Lynn and I (and most of the camp we later found out) were woken at 4.15 a.m. by Bee and Sherrill chatting. We tried to get back to sleep but decided at 5 a.m. that we might as well get ourselves up and dressed and pack our bags up for the days trek. Having a wet wipe wash and getting dressed in your sleeping bag in a tent with someone you don't know is quite an experience. No sooner were we clean than dust would get everywhere and make you feel filthy again.

The tent boys 'knocked' at 6 a.m. asking what we wanted to drink. We then went off to the mess tent for breakfast while the tent porters packed our tents away and packed our trek bags in plastic to protect them for the day.

Breakfast was hearty porridge with bread, peanut butter and pink sausages. Before setting off, Dave led the group in some stretching exercises to get us ready for the trek ahead. Today the trek would take us from 3000m to 3850m above sea level at the Shira Plateau.

Yesterdays headache hadn't really gone and I was also suffering from nausea this morning. The trek took us on a fairly steep and rock path up through the mist. At the front of the group they amused themselves by trying to name films through the alphabet while the back of the groups to to confound each other with increasingly difficult logic problems - some of which I still don't know the answer to. It wasn't long before we suddenly popped through the clouds and were able to look down on them - it was an amazing view. As usual, the porters were not far behind, ready to overtake us despite their heavy loads.


The climb to lunch camp was quite tough but it was reassuring to see the mess tent and the toilet tent had been set up in readiness for our arrival. Lunch was soup followed by a delicious vegetable spaghetti dish and fresh oranges.

I started to feel much worse after lunch with a really bad headache which was affecting my sinuses and making my nose bleed. It has to be the most painful headache I've ever had. Doc advised me to sit in the shade for a few minutes, take more painkillers and then pace myself really slowly until they kicked in. The lovely Jimmy (our assistant guide) walked with me to Shira camp, arriving about half hour after the rest of the group.

A hot drink was really welcome at this point. I was feeling pretty low and wanted to speak to Chris and the children but couldn't get a signal. I decided to lay on a rock in the sun and read my book instead. Just what the doctor ordered - I was feeling better after a short while. The clouds had lifted and we were rewarded with our first view of Kibo, the highest peak on Kilimanjaro. Some of the group then went on an acclimatisation walk to Shira Caves before tea. What was meant to be a 15 minute walk turned into an hour and a half as we decided to walk to Shira 1 camp and back as well.


First view of Kibo and Shira Cave


Mount Meru in the distance


We were all ready for tea by the time we got back to camp - fresh pumpkin soup, coriander pancakes, goulash, fresh coleslaw and ROAST POTATOES - how did they manage that on their calor gas stove? Straight to bed after tea and a beautiful view of Kibo glowing red in the sunset sent us to sleep.



Day 5 - 31st August 2010

Lynn and I woke at 5 after a good 9 hours sleep. I still felt head achy and bunged up but definitely feel better for the sleep. Everything in the tent is damp and there is a wet pool under my mat and sleeping bags. We've already had problems with the zip on the tent and it now appears that we've sprung a leak. We pack ready for breakfast of porridge, bread and omelette's at 6.30.

Lenticular Cloud

Today we will be climbing from 3850m to 4600m (lunching at 4500m) the back down to 3950m at Barranco Camp to sleep. This is to aid acclimatisation. It will be a real test on the altitude sickness front. This climb was very tough from the start. The terrain was rocky interspersed with shale. My headache was worsening by the minute and 1 hour into the climb Meera felt so sick she could barely put one foot in front of the other. The group was stopped for a rest then I was sent to the front with Jimmy to lead and set the pace and Whitie stayed at the back with Meera who was really struggling. At this point Jo began to feel ill and was struggling to keep up. It was a real effort to put one foot in front of the other to get to the Lava Tower rock where we knew we would stop for lunch. For the last 50m to the mess tent Sherrill was literally pushing me up the slope. When we reached the lunch stop we were told that Meera had been too ill to continue and had been taken to Barranco camp by piggy back along the porters route (lucky thing!) to see if she could recover in time to continue tomorrow.


Ever present little striped mice and our lunch stop at Lava Tower Rock

Lunch was a welcome rest even though none of us where particularly hungry. After lunch we split into two groups with the fitter heading off to Barranco Camp at a good pace and the rest of us making the best time we could. The landscape was barren and grey with only the strange Dendrosenico Kilimanjari plants to give ant greenery.



Dendrosenico Kilimanjari and a view of Barranco Camp

We all had a good laugh at Dave who said - "guys, this bit's downhill, use gravity to help you" and promptly slipped and fell on his bum :-). This was not a difficult walk but we're all tired and finally reach camp at 4pm. I'm thrilled to find a mobile phone signal and ring Chris to say hello - it makes me feel much better. We found out when we got to camp that they had discussed sending Meera home but have given in to her pleas and dosed her up to see how she fares tomorrow.

Dinner was not too appetising tonight being rice and pea stew YUK.

The Doc took me aside after tea and gave me a Diamox tablet to take as he is concerned my headaches will prevent me from reaching the summit if they carry on. I am to have one every 12 hours until summit day and continue with the painkillers as well.

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Kilimanjaro: Days 1-3

I know I have been very remiss in keeping up to date with my pre-Kilimanjaro blogs and for that I apologise. I can only say that a lot of time was spent training and fundraising.

I keep a diary while I was away so I am just going to copy that in here and post some pictures along the way.

Day 1 - 26th/27th August 2010

After a very relaxing aromatherapy massage and a lunch of fresh bread and homemade soup, I took myself off to bed for a nap in anticipation of a long nights travel. I surprised myself and managed to sleep for 3.5 hours. I had tea with Chris and gradually he and the children went off to bed leaving me a 4 hour wait for the taxing in which I'm sure I walked miles with all my nervous pacing.

2am arrived with my taxi dead on time. He was a lovely man but had very strange ideas about speed. He stayed determinedly on 45 mph through the multitude of roadworks on the M1/M25 then put his foot right through the floor on the sections in between while explaining that it wasn't worth his livelihood to get a ticket.

I arrived at the airport at the same time as John (who I had met for a training walk through Discover Adventure's (DA) forum). Gradually more of the team turned up, easily identifiable by their DA labels on their bags. It wasn't long before we started introducing ourselves and chatting about how nervous/excited we were.

After and hour and a half we started to get a little concerned as the DA Trip Leader hadn't turned up. Meera's parents insisted she phone the emergency number we had been given, only to be told that the leader Dave wouldn't be meeting us until the following day. We now needed to book ourselves in and make our own way to Kilimanjaro airport - aaarrrghhhh, as if I wasn't nervous enough already. Booking in was no easy feat as it turned out that 9 of the 15 had no e-tickets on the system and by the time we had got it all sorted it was practically time to board the Amsterdam flight. The flight was busy but passed quickly and we were soon in a coffee bar at Amsterdam airport having a drink bought for us by Mark - none of the rest of us had the forethought to bring Euros for this leg.

We were soon onto the next flight with KLM airlines. It was very long and boring but I can't fault the airline. the staff were helpful (allowing us a row of seats each in case we wanted to sleep) and the food was really good.

We touched down in Kilimanjaro airport at 9.20 pm in 24 degrees heat to find a massive queue for the visa desk, and the trip doctor waiting to take us to our hotel. We could only feel sorry for Doctor James as he had only come down Kilimanjaro that afternoon and had hardly slept for 2 days. the office had had to draft him in due to the absence of Dave (trip leader).

The hotel was much nicer than expected and after a quick dinner it was off to bed.

Day 2 - 28th August 2010

After a much needed sleep and a cold shower (not by choice!) I met up with the rest of the team for breakfast. They are:

Gaynor and Lynn - sister-in-laws from Neath
Libby and Ellen - friends from London
Brioney - Mental Health Nurse from Leeds
Fraser and Jo - Friends from Wakefield
Mark - Venture Capitalist from Cambridge
John - Horsham (met previously on training walk)
Berathy (Bee), Sherrill and Steve - friends from London
Meera - Training to be a Doctor in London
Bikram - Just about to start St Andrews University and from London.


Team around the pool and the lovely gardens

The pool and monkeys in the garden

We had a quick briefing from the Doc, the main news being that Dave was due to arrive at 4pm and would brief us fully. We all jumped into the minibus and headed off into nearby Moshi for lunch. The only restaurant the DA staff use is the IndioItaliano Restaurant which had a bizarre mix of curry, pasta and fresh pizza on the menu. the food was good though and it gave us chance to find out more about each other.

We did some shopping in Moshi, most of us quickly getting used to the constant hassle from men trying to take us to their sister's shop or trying to sell us souvenirs on the street. Some great bargains were had by all!


The team at lunch and celebrations in Moshi High Street


Once back at the hotel we were briefed on how things would work over the next week - beginning with a 6a.m. breakfast the following morning. An early dinner and an early night was recommended and most of us were off to bed by 9.30.

Day 3 - 29th August 2010

Day 3 dawned bright and early with a monkey making a right racket outside my window. After another cold shower I took my bags out to the hotel reception and label one to be transported to the next hotel, one for the trek and my day pack which I would take on the coach myself.

After a quick breakfast of freshly made omelette and toast we were soon ready to leave. the weather was appalling and rain gear was recommended all round. After a 30 minute drive we arrived at the Machame Gate entrance tot he Kilimanjaro National Park and were signed in for the trek ahead.


Warnings and rules at the gate

Ahsante Tours, our local guides and porters, provided us with water to fill our camel packs and a packed lunch for the journey. We met our main guide Whitie again (we had briefly met him before at the hotel) and were all given roll call numbers (mine was 2) and off we went.


Sherrill and Steve looking very wet and Ahsante Tour Guide Whitie

We had been warned that we would walk very slowly and that Whitie would set the pace. Under no circumstances were we allowed to pass him. By the time we reached the lunch stop, we had all realised why the pace was so slow, the reduction in oxygen was already apparent and I already had a headache.


Tent Porters

The porters didn't seem to have any such problems and were trotting past us at regular intervals with backpacks on and large loads balance on their heads.

The packed lunches provided were quite substantial and included a wrap with roast potatoes and beef inside, a fruit drink, chocolate bar, small cake and a banana. It was nice to stop and rest for a bit, if only to catch our breath. The lunch stop was our introduction to the fables Long Drop Toilets about which there are hundreds of posts on the Internet. I can honestly say they were the most revolting I had ever seen. They were dark and smelly and absolutely infested with flies. Jo and I decided the best way to conquer them was to loosen all the lower clothing in readiness, take a very deep breath then rush in, do your business and come back out to breath and return our clothing to the correct position. Yuk.

We head off on the two hour trip to camp after taking paracetamol for the ever present headache. By this time the rain had stopped and we had all stripped off and stowed several layers of clothing. The path is still meandering through the tropical zone heading into cloud forest. Here there are Impatiens Kilimanjari - an orange flowers indigenous to the mountain, and loads of different types of moss.



We soon walk into a clearing to find camp - all our tents are pitched waiting for us and there is fresh popcorn and hot drinks in the mess tent for all. We are advised at this point to get our beds ready as altitude makes everything more effort and we probably will not feel like it later on.



We soon settle don to a game of 'wink murder' with the murder victims dieing in the most dramatic way possible. Steve was a clear winner when he threw himself backwards off his stool - we thought he'd cracked his head open but he's just a very good actor.

Dinner was fab; soup followed by a chicken stew, rice and peas and finished with fresh avocado and hot drinks. Most of the team were in bed by 7.30, with a couple of the party people singing and chatting until 8.30. I spent the night worrying about waking Lynn up on my frequent visits to the toilet tent but i needn't have feared - she slept through it all.