Kilimanjaro: Days 6-7

Day 6 - 1st September 2010

From Barranco Camp via Karanga Camp to Barafu camp would take us from 4000m to 4600m above sea level. Today we have an early start as we need to climb the Barranco Wall, walk for 3.5 hours over 'gentle undulations' (Dave's much overused phrase usually meaning steep and slippery ascents and descents which tire you out and kill the legs). We were all up and ready to leave at 6.30. We're all a bit worried as we know this is going to be a super tough day with 8+ hours of walking, a few hours sleep and up at 11 p.m. for the summit attempt.

A long way up.

The Barranco wall was everything I had hoped for - the best fun I have had in ages. The going was steep in places and there were large rock steps but, in the main, it was fairly straightforward scrambling. Some of the team are not so happy as it's an awfully long way down. Bee has named me 'pocket rocket' for the speed I ascended - partly because I was having fun but also feeling a lot better due to Doc's drugs.

What fun!

Even on this part of the route the porters are over taking us with their heavy loads - some of them running up the rocks. We have been amazed over the last few days what diverse footwear the porters wear. We've seen everything from crocs to oversize walking boots, from loafers to old trainers. There are paid so little, and it is so poor here, that they mainly wear cast-offs from trekkers and holidaymakers.

A well desrved rest!

It took a good two hours to reach the top. Once we'd all arrived we lined up along the ledge facing the way we came. Dave asked us to have a minutes silence and think about what had bought us here and about our loved ones that were supporting us - quite an emotional moment for all.

A moment of contemplation.

Dave gave out crystallized ginger to settle stomachs then we were off again to cover those 'gentle undulations'. The weather wasn't great and the mist cover very low and the going slippery in places. Myself and Meera were feeling much better but Jo had stated to feel worse and was really struggling with exhaustion and a bad stomach. It took us 3.5 hours to reach Karanga Camp and we were only able to stop for 30 minutes lunch break. Karanga Camp was very busy and quite smelly due to the proximity of the long drops.

En-route and arrival at Karanga Camp

The afternoon trek to Barafu Camp was 3.5 hours of relentless slog on a nasty shale surface. The landscape at this point is very barren with little vegetation at all and the overcast weather didn't do much to lift the spirits. By the time we reached camp a bad headache was looming and I was ready to sit down for a hot drink.

The long path across and upto Barafu Camp and a warning that Acute Mountain Sickness is likely here.

We had 2 hours before dinner to sort out our bedding, get our clothes ready for the summit attempt, fill our water containers and get our day packs sorted. It doesn't sound like a massive job but the altitude made even sorting your kit bag take 3 times as long and made you feel like you'd run a marathon without even moving.

Inhospitable Camp

Jo finally made it into camp at 5.30 just as the rest of us were going into dinner. She was exhausted and just wanted to lie down. Dave and Whitie briefed us on the night ahead as we tried to force down some food. We would be going to bed straight after dinner, waking at 11 p.m. to have some porridge and a hot drink and leave the camp at 12 midnight to begin the long and arduous trek to the summit.

I was surprised that I managed to sleep for 4 hours - and I really needed it. Thankfully my headache had receded to a dull ache. we all dosed up on painkillers, ate as much as we could manage (not much in most cases), had a hot drink and set off in a line Pole, Pole (slowly, slowly) on our way. Sadly Jo decided not to attempt the summit so we left camp without her.

Day 7 - 2nd September 2010 - Summit Day

As we walked the half hour out of camp it began to get more and more difficult to breathe. We knew we had to climb from 4600 to approx. 5900 and that, if anything, breathing would become harder.

The first section once out of camp was 30 minutes over large rocks and then onto the relentless shale switchback which we had been briefed would take us approximately 5 hours to climb. When we approached this section and looked up the mountain, all you could see for as far as you could see were head torches in a zigzag up the mountain. 1.5 hours into this section we stopped for a brief break. It needed to be brief because you rapidly start to freeze in the -9 wind once you stop walking,. We were encouraged to try and eat (unsuccessfully) and drink before starting again. I cannot describe how painful and tired my legs felt at this point.

My Hero Benny.....................................Some of the team arriving at the summit

Not long after this stop, I tripped and fell. Benny (my summit porter and all round Hero) took my pack and pulled me up. Holding one of my hand, he urged me on. the porters kept bursting into song and the sound of their singing lifted every ones spirits. After 3 hours, I just sat on a rock and cried - I was exhausted and my head hurt. I wanted a wee but there was no way I was going to in this cold. I suddenly had a vision of Alex, hands on hips, saying "stop that jibba, jabba woman". It made me laugh and tell myself to get off my bum and get on with it.

...These are the conditions we walked in for 6 hrs ......................... The crater

I took back my poles form Benny and started walking 50 steps, stop, take 10 deep breaths and a drink, walk 50 steps, stop on and on and on. We had not been prepared for how terrible the last 250m to Stella Point were - the surface was so bad you'd take one step and slide back half a step. Benny blatantly lied saying "only 10 minutes to Stella" over and over for at least an hour. Just as we were about to reach he told me to turn round and the sun was coming up. Awesome.

I reached Stella Point and sat out of the wind while I changed my frozen camera battery and while I sat there one of the guides came and gave me a hot, sweet cup of tea. These guys are unbelievable.

Stopped for a rest!

Within 15 minutes most of the team had arrived. I then found out that poor Lynn had collapsed with hypothermia 2 hours in and been rushed back to camp, John had had breathing difficulties and gone back to camp and Sherrill had decided after 3 hours that she did not have the energy to go on. Such a shame.

Doc and Dave were hurrying us on for the hour ish walk from Stella Point to Uhuru Peak, the true summit. Now the sun was up and I could see the glaciers and ice fields, it didn't seem nearly as hard.

Wow - Can't believe I made it

Reaching the summit was the most amazing feeling in my life. Just the sense of awe at the scenery and the sense of achievement at getting there filled me with emotion.

Glaciers between 150 and 200m high

We were allowed to stay only for about 15 minutes as the combination of -15 winds and 50% less oxygen to breathe could prove dangerous. I wish I could have stayed longer. Fraser was asked for a philosophical quote now that we had arrived - his quote was "get me off this f***** mountain", he was so exhausted. Bikram had been bragging that he would do a moonie on top and, despite the cold winds, he did. Much to our amusement and the bemusement of other groups.

Way above the couds..................................................Ice fields

The route from Stella Point to Uhuru Summit

After having our pictures taken and taking pictures of the view, Benny started shepherding me off the mountain. That walk/run down has got to be the most punishing bit. The porters hold on to you and 'scree surf' you down the first 400m which basically means you ski on your heels. Not easy when you are absolutely exhausted. It took ages to reach the camp and, although you could see it, it never seemed to get any closer. I was the first to the summit but half the group reached camp before me, I just couldn't walk any faster.

We arrived back at camp at 10.45 and had 2 hours until lunch in which to fit in a sleep and to pack all our gear ready for trekking to Millennium Camp where we would spend the night. It was hardly worth sleeping so I packed my gear and propped myself up on a rock to read.

After a quick lunch we set off for the long and slow walk to Millennium Camp. It was really hard on the knees and legs and took us 3 hours instead of the 2 we had been told. Most of barely attempted tea before getting off to bed around 6 p.m.