Kilmanjaro: Days 4-5

Day 4 - 30th August 2010

After a long and restless night Lynn and I (and most of the camp we later found out) were woken at 4.15 a.m. by Bee and Sherrill chatting. We tried to get back to sleep but decided at 5 a.m. that we might as well get ourselves up and dressed and pack our bags up for the days trek. Having a wet wipe wash and getting dressed in your sleeping bag in a tent with someone you don't know is quite an experience. No sooner were we clean than dust would get everywhere and make you feel filthy again.

The tent boys 'knocked' at 6 a.m. asking what we wanted to drink. We then went off to the mess tent for breakfast while the tent porters packed our tents away and packed our trek bags in plastic to protect them for the day.

Breakfast was hearty porridge with bread, peanut butter and pink sausages. Before setting off, Dave led the group in some stretching exercises to get us ready for the trek ahead. Today the trek would take us from 3000m to 3850m above sea level at the Shira Plateau.

Yesterdays headache hadn't really gone and I was also suffering from nausea this morning. The trek took us on a fairly steep and rock path up through the mist. At the front of the group they amused themselves by trying to name films through the alphabet while the back of the groups to to confound each other with increasingly difficult logic problems - some of which I still don't know the answer to. It wasn't long before we suddenly popped through the clouds and were able to look down on them - it was an amazing view. As usual, the porters were not far behind, ready to overtake us despite their heavy loads.

The climb to lunch camp was quite tough but it was reassuring to see the mess tent and the toilet tent had been set up in readiness for our arrival. Lunch was soup followed by a delicious vegetable spaghetti dish and fresh oranges.

I started to feel much worse after lunch with a really bad headache which was affecting my sinuses and making my nose bleed. It has to be the most painful headache I've ever had. Doc advised me to sit in the shade for a few minutes, take more painkillers and then pace myself really slowly until they kicked in. The lovely Jimmy (our assistant guide) walked with me to Shira camp, arriving about half hour after the rest of the group.

A hot drink was really welcome at this point. I was feeling pretty low and wanted to speak to Chris and the children but couldn't get a signal. I decided to lay on a rock in the sun and read my book instead. Just what the doctor ordered - I was feeling better after a short while. The clouds had lifted and we were rewarded with our first view of Kibo, the highest peak on Kilimanjaro. Some of the group then went on an acclimatisation walk to Shira Caves before tea. What was meant to be a 15 minute walk turned into an hour and a half as we decided to walk to Shira 1 camp and back as well.

First view of Kibo and Shira Cave

Mount Meru in the distance

We were all ready for tea by the time we got back to camp - fresh pumpkin soup, coriander pancakes, goulash, fresh coleslaw and ROAST POTATOES - how did they manage that on their calor gas stove? Straight to bed after tea and a beautiful view of Kibo glowing red in the sunset sent us to sleep.

Day 5 - 31st August 2010

Lynn and I woke at 5 after a good 9 hours sleep. I still felt head achy and bunged up but definitely feel better for the sleep. Everything in the tent is damp and there is a wet pool under my mat and sleeping bags. We've already had problems with the zip on the tent and it now appears that we've sprung a leak. We pack ready for breakfast of porridge, bread and omelette's at 6.30.

Lenticular Cloud

Today we will be climbing from 3850m to 4600m (lunching at 4500m) the back down to 3950m at Barranco Camp to sleep. This is to aid acclimatisation. It will be a real test on the altitude sickness front. This climb was very tough from the start. The terrain was rocky interspersed with shale. My headache was worsening by the minute and 1 hour into the climb Meera felt so sick she could barely put one foot in front of the other. The group was stopped for a rest then I was sent to the front with Jimmy to lead and set the pace and Whitie stayed at the back with Meera who was really struggling. At this point Jo began to feel ill and was struggling to keep up. It was a real effort to put one foot in front of the other to get to the Lava Tower rock where we knew we would stop for lunch. For the last 50m to the mess tent Sherrill was literally pushing me up the slope. When we reached the lunch stop we were told that Meera had been too ill to continue and had been taken to Barranco camp by piggy back along the porters route (lucky thing!) to see if she could recover in time to continue tomorrow.

Ever present little striped mice and our lunch stop at Lava Tower Rock

Lunch was a welcome rest even though none of us where particularly hungry. After lunch we split into two groups with the fitter heading off to Barranco Camp at a good pace and the rest of us making the best time we could. The landscape was barren and grey with only the strange Dendrosenico Kilimanjari plants to give ant greenery.

Dendrosenico Kilimanjari and a view of Barranco Camp

We all had a good laugh at Dave who said - "guys, this bit's downhill, use gravity to help you" and promptly slipped and fell on his bum :-). This was not a difficult walk but we're all tired and finally reach camp at 4pm. I'm thrilled to find a mobile phone signal and ring Chris to say hello - it makes me feel much better. We found out when we got to camp that they had discussed sending Meera home but have given in to her pleas and dosed her up to see how she fares tomorrow.

Dinner was not too appetising tonight being rice and pea stew YUK.

The Doc took me aside after tea and gave me a Diamox tablet to take as he is concerned my headaches will prevent me from reaching the summit if they carry on. I am to have one every 12 hours until summit day and continue with the painkillers as well.

Kilimanjaro: Days 1-3

I know I have been very remiss in keeping up to date with my pre-Kilimanjaro blogs and for that I apologise. I can only say that a lot of time was spent training and fundraising.

I keep a diary while I was away so I am just going to copy that in here and post some pictures along the way.

Day 1 - 26th/27th August 2010

After a very relaxing aromatherapy massage and a lunch of fresh bread and homemade soup, I took myself off to bed for a nap in anticipation of a long nights travel. I surprised myself and managed to sleep for 3.5 hours. I had tea with Chris and gradually he and the children went off to bed leaving me a 4 hour wait for the taxing in which I'm sure I walked miles with all my nervous pacing.

2am arrived with my taxi dead on time. He was a lovely man but had very strange ideas about speed. He stayed determinedly on 45 mph through the multitude of roadworks on the M1/M25 then put his foot right through the floor on the sections in between while explaining that it wasn't worth his livelihood to get a ticket.

I arrived at the airport at the same time as John (who I had met for a training walk through Discover Adventure's (DA) forum). Gradually more of the team turned up, easily identifiable by their DA labels on their bags. It wasn't long before we started introducing ourselves and chatting about how nervous/excited we were.

After and hour and a half we started to get a little concerned as the DA Trip Leader hadn't turned up. Meera's parents insisted she phone the emergency number we had been given, only to be told that the leader Dave wouldn't be meeting us until the following day. We now needed to book ourselves in and make our own way to Kilimanjaro airport - aaarrrghhhh, as if I wasn't nervous enough already. Booking in was no easy feat as it turned out that 9 of the 15 had no e-tickets on the system and by the time we had got it all sorted it was practically time to board the Amsterdam flight. The flight was busy but passed quickly and we were soon in a coffee bar at Amsterdam airport having a drink bought for us by Mark - none of the rest of us had the forethought to bring Euros for this leg.

We were soon onto the next flight with KLM airlines. It was very long and boring but I can't fault the airline. the staff were helpful (allowing us a row of seats each in case we wanted to sleep) and the food was really good.

We touched down in Kilimanjaro airport at 9.20 pm in 24 degrees heat to find a massive queue for the visa desk, and the trip doctor waiting to take us to our hotel. We could only feel sorry for Doctor James as he had only come down Kilimanjaro that afternoon and had hardly slept for 2 days. the office had had to draft him in due to the absence of Dave (trip leader).

The hotel was much nicer than expected and after a quick dinner it was off to bed.

Day 2 - 28th August 2010

After a much needed sleep and a cold shower (not by choice!) I met up with the rest of the team for breakfast. They are:

Gaynor and Lynn - sister-in-laws from Neath
Libby and Ellen - friends from London
Brioney - Mental Health Nurse from Leeds
Fraser and Jo - Friends from Wakefield
Mark - Venture Capitalist from Cambridge
John - Horsham (met previously on training walk)
Berathy (Bee), Sherrill and Steve - friends from London
Meera - Training to be a Doctor in London
Bikram - Just about to start St Andrews University and from London.

Team around the pool and the lovely gardens

The pool and monkeys in the garden

We had a quick briefing from the Doc, the main news being that Dave was due to arrive at 4pm and would brief us fully. We all jumped into the minibus and headed off into nearby Moshi for lunch. The only restaurant the DA staff use is the IndioItaliano Restaurant which had a bizarre mix of curry, pasta and fresh pizza on the menu. the food was good though and it gave us chance to find out more about each other.

We did some shopping in Moshi, most of us quickly getting used to the constant hassle from men trying to take us to their sister's shop or trying to sell us souvenirs on the street. Some great bargains were had by all!

The team at lunch and celebrations in Moshi High Street

Once back at the hotel we were briefed on how things would work over the next week - beginning with a 6a.m. breakfast the following morning. An early dinner and an early night was recommended and most of us were off to bed by 9.30.

Day 3 - 29th August 2010

Day 3 dawned bright and early with a monkey making a right racket outside my window. After another cold shower I took my bags out to the hotel reception and label one to be transported to the next hotel, one for the trek and my day pack which I would take on the coach myself.

After a quick breakfast of freshly made omelette and toast we were soon ready to leave. the weather was appalling and rain gear was recommended all round. After a 30 minute drive we arrived at the Machame Gate entrance tot he Kilimanjaro National Park and were signed in for the trek ahead.

Warnings and rules at the gate

Ahsante Tours, our local guides and porters, provided us with water to fill our camel packs and a packed lunch for the journey. We met our main guide Whitie again (we had briefly met him before at the hotel) and were all given roll call numbers (mine was 2) and off we went.

Sherrill and Steve looking very wet and Ahsante Tour Guide Whitie

We had been warned that we would walk very slowly and that Whitie would set the pace. Under no circumstances were we allowed to pass him. By the time we reached the lunch stop, we had all realised why the pace was so slow, the reduction in oxygen was already apparent and I already had a headache.

Tent Porters

The porters didn't seem to have any such problems and were trotting past us at regular intervals with backpacks on and large loads balance on their heads.

The packed lunches provided were quite substantial and included a wrap with roast potatoes and beef inside, a fruit drink, chocolate bar, small cake and a banana. It was nice to stop and rest for a bit, if only to catch our breath. The lunch stop was our introduction to the fables Long Drop Toilets about which there are hundreds of posts on the Internet. I can honestly say they were the most revolting I had ever seen. They were dark and smelly and absolutely infested with flies. Jo and I decided the best way to conquer them was to loosen all the lower clothing in readiness, take a very deep breath then rush in, do your business and come back out to breath and return our clothing to the correct position. Yuk.

We head off on the two hour trip to camp after taking paracetamol for the ever present headache. By this time the rain had stopped and we had all stripped off and stowed several layers of clothing. The path is still meandering through the tropical zone heading into cloud forest. Here there are Impatiens Kilimanjari - an orange flowers indigenous to the mountain, and loads of different types of moss.

We soon walk into a clearing to find camp - all our tents are pitched waiting for us and there is fresh popcorn and hot drinks in the mess tent for all. We are advised at this point to get our beds ready as altitude makes everything more effort and we probably will not feel like it later on.

We soon settle don to a game of 'wink murder' with the murder victims dieing in the most dramatic way possible. Steve was a clear winner when he threw himself backwards off his stool - we thought he'd cracked his head open but he's just a very good actor.

Dinner was fab; soup followed by a chicken stew, rice and peas and finished with fresh avocado and hot drinks. Most of the team were in bed by 7.30, with a couple of the party people singing and chatting until 8.30. I spent the night worrying about waking Lynn up on my frequent visits to the toilet tent but i needn't have feared - she slept through it all.

Northumberland

...... to follow

Scotland Trip, April 2010

Scotland trip with Al and Gaz. 1,650 miles door to door. Furthest point Durness. Al has a puncture in the middle of nowhere, 70 miles from John O' Groats. Scotland in the sunshine is better than biking anywhere in the world. Keyword 'sunshine' ;)

Scotland April 2010 from Chris Ford on Vimeo.

Strata Florida, NRG Easter weekend

The Fords arrived at Midday on Good Friday, around the same time as Mark and Tim. Before we’d even switched the engine off it was time for our first recovery. The couple next door had managed to get their Astra stuck and had made a right mess of the grass. They were a bit incapable so the lady in the next pitch backed up her Discovery and we used my recovery strap on the stranded Astra which I drove out backwards.

It was raining very heavily so we decided to pitch our tent on the gravel hardstanding as it looked much drier than any of the surrounding grass. Until we opened the tent bag and I realised I’d left the rock pegs at home and only had really flimsy ones that would not be driven into the gravel. Plan B was to pitch on the grass instead, which the pegs went straight in using only fingers to push them in! Luckily our super duper tent has a very good groundsheet to keep the water out and a foil backed carpet to keep the heat in. It did, however, feel like walking on a water bed inside the tent the ground was that sodden.

Tent pitched and gear stowed we joined Mark and Tim to drive to the first lane to meet Mike, Wayne and Jose and family. By this time it had stopped raining. Not sure exactly where we started but we ended up at the Elan valley, which is one of my favourite places; beautiful Victorian engineering amid a desolate Welsh landscape. Awesome scenery.

We pulled over in front of the last dam for a chat, a loo break and for Wayne to change his fuel filter. Jose’s great dane puppy, with feet the size of saucers, received a lot of attention. As the break extended, and as we had beds to blow up and make for the night the Fords made their excuses and left. Chores done, the caravaners were returning to the camp site as we were leaving for the pub. Very nice real ale it did, too.

Saturday saw some gentle early lanes. Vanessa even drove for a bit both on and off road. She quite liked the easy off road stuff, but hated the handling of the Surf on the road. After lunch (I think) we were on one of those necessary evils, the long bit of road between lanes, and I was following Jose. The roads were mainly dry, but there were big puddles here and there. We’d just passed a railway station in the middle of nowhere, it was named after the road it was on not a place, and Jose drove through a puddle that threw up some water. A little further on it became obvious that the liquids still dropping from Jose’s Discovery could not still be water from the puddle so I called him on the cb radio and we pulled over. The liquid was a red oil, so transmission or steering fluid, and was still coming out so weekend over for Jose and family. With no phone signal, and a recovery place a few miles down the road that we’d passed earlier, Mike drove Jose there to arrange recovery.

Mike and Jose returned with the recovery arranged, so we said our goodbyes and headed off to the next lane. After a few strange gate configurations we came to a lane that looked like it hadn’t been driven fully for a while. A short decent, it then crossed a stream and climbed up the other side when the tracks stopped. Mark was in front and made the first attempt and got as far as the tracks did before all four wheels started spinning. With a few hundred kilo’s of additional bodies hanging off the back and giving a helpful push, Mark made it to the top. My turn next. Unfortunately there were no comedy moments for the Surf made it to the top without spinning a wheel. So did Tim in his G-Wagen. Wayne made sure he didn’t get stuck either.

A little further on the same lane got very tight through the trees and then we came to another stream crossing, this time on a tight 90 degree bend around the foot of a hill, and the stream falling off 6 feet below. It took some helpful sighting from Mike and Mark to ensure we got round safely, and I followed Mike’s word to boot it when he said. I’m not sure that Mike expected the back to step out and nearly pitch him off the hill into the stream though!

Saturday’s last lane was the highlight of the trip, the Strata Florida. Strata Florida Abbey is a former Cistercian abbey situated just outside Pontrhydfendigaid, near Tregaron in the county of Ceredigion, Wales. The abbey was originally founded in 1164. The name Strata Florida is a corruption of the Welsh Ystrad Fflur, meaning Valley of (the river of) Flowers. The ruins of this Abbey marks the start of one of the most well known and scenic green lanes in Britain.

We’ve driven this lane before as a family, and Alex and I also camped on it overnight with a load of other Surf owners. That time it rained heavily all night and one of the crossings at the Llandovery end were over 5 feet deep so we had to turn back. This Easter weekend perfect though. The recent rains meant the nine river crossings were interesting, but passable, and we threaded our way parallel to the timber road into the nothingness of the Cambrian mountains. We stopped for a brew and some of the younger members had a snowball fight.

We made it back to the campsite; the caravaners to their ready meals and the tenters to the pub again. Did I mention the real ale?

We decided to call it a day and pack up Sunday morning rather than try and rush in some last minute lanes. Good job really as we developed a nasty, but brief, shaky noise on the drive back which developed into a louder and more prolonged noise when we reached the motorway. The recovery guy couldn’t diagnose the exact problem so we also got taken home on the back of a truck. Still don’t know what it is, but suspected UJ or similar issue on the front axle.

What did I get myself into?

I had spoken with Tesco at Bletchley on several occasions about fundraising for Willen Hospice. They were up for the challenge as they have chosen the Hospice as their local charity for the year.

After the last bag packing event, I wasn't overly keep to do another so I suggested to them that I could walk on a treadmill in their store for the day and they could collect with buckets. "Great idea" the charity coordinator said, "we'll get two and members of staff here can do a relay while you walk". Chuffed with that, I left it to them to organise their side of things while I contacted the hospice for buckets and T-shirts.

I spoke to the charity coordinator several times, having to delay our date once due to lack of treadmills. I then spent several days trying to get hold of her to confirm my walking date. When we did finally manage to talk she said "We're looking forward to seeing you Saturday", "thanks" said I unsuspectingly. "We couldn't get treadmills so we've got you an exercise bike" - aaaarrrghhhhhhhh. If there's one thing I absolutely loathe at the gym it's, yes you've guessed it, the exercise bike.

I promptly rushed out and bought myself the most unflattering pair of padded shorts you have ever seen - keen to protect my nether region from harm and proceeded to worry myself silly for the next 4 days. I was convinced that I would embarrass myself by not being able to complete an hour, let alone 6.

I arrived at the store to find that the charity ccoordinator was on a day off and there was a bit of confusion over the plan for the day but they soon had the bikes set up in the foyer and myself and a member of Tesco staff where off. They had also enlisted Virgin Active to give out free passes and goodie bags to people who donated - which was nice.

It was an extremely cold place to cycle and, not realising whee the bike would be, I had a short sleeve top so I kept having to put my jacket on. Only to warm off and take it off again 5 minutes later. It was a busy day and donations where steady throughout the day.

I can honestly say that my bum has never been so painful. I really had to will myself on and, as the hours progressed, it got harder and harder but i was able to maintain a steady (and reasonably fast) pace right to the end. It was lovely to have some friends come along to cheer me through the last half hour as I was really flagging.

It was certainly not the most enjoyable fundraising I've ever done but it netted me £530 towards my total and a couple of stonking bruises on my legs.

Snowdon Training Weekend

The weekend started well with a reasonable 4 hour journey to the youth hostel. As expected, it was pretty basic but clean and Jane and I checked in with haste as Rebecca and Nige were already at the pub!

Saturday

Started at Rhyd Ddu

Walked up Y Garn - 633m (to be fair, we actually dragged ourselves up here - it was a right slog)

Onto Mynydd Drws-y-coed – 695m

The weather was very changeable all day with bursts of sunshine followed by weeping mists and very fine rain.

Jim - one of the leaders who is a mountain guide in Snowdonia and freelances for Discover Adventure.

Onto Trum y Ddysgl – 709m

Total distance trekked approx 9km

Total height gain of 580m

Sunday

Started at Gelliago

Up to the summit of Cnicht – 689m

This bit was great fun - lots of scrambling one both solid and loose rock faces with easier routes for the less intrepid to go around the obstacles.

For Red Class - Mrs Ford on a mountain

Indescribably beautiful scenery.

This motley crew are Jane, Rebecca, Nige and Me - the 'Walkies' Team

Total distance trekked approx 6.5km

Total height gain of 550m

This weekend was such a great laugh - good company, good food and a nice comfy bed.

It was extremely hard work but what a sense of achievement. I am well and truly hooked!